My research on John Locke provides me with no small interest in the history of cafes. Locke and a number of his contemporaries frequented coffee houses in London long before tea had become popular in Britain. They would most likely have drunk Turkish coffee, and the socializing was not just for amusement. The coffee houses were major centers for literary, scientific, philosophical, political, and artistic discussion and work. There are of course obvious parallels with French cafes a century later.
The coffee house scene in England is now markedly changed. It had died almost utterly, and has now been revivified halfway by Italianesque espresso cafes and halfway by Starbucks and its clones. In fact, chains dominate the market both in London and in the hinterlands (Exeter). London cafes and the Exeter equivalents may be run by the same companies, but there are notable differences in the cultures of their patrons. In London I found that there is a good deal of pure aimless socialization, reveling in discussion, and simple enjoyment of rich espresso. But I have also overheard business meetings. One sees a lot of reading and work on laptop computers. I think particularly of a two floored Starbucks on Tottenham Court Road that has a large table upstairs replete with multiple power outlets. Perfect for portable computer users.
The cafe's in Exeter are not so cultured. They are brash, noisy, and the patrons are mainly taking a break from shopping. This is fine, but if I'm studying in a cafe, I am pretty much alone.
Now the reason why I've written about the past and present of the coffee house in England is purely by way of introduction to my present position - studying in a cafe in Korea. The name, Cafe Pascucci, the place, Gangnam. One of the things that strikes me about this place, is the rather different culture of its denizens. In some sense I am reminded of the multifaceted role of coffee houses in 17th century London. Some of that is preserved in London, but divergent aspects have coalesced here in Gangnam.
By no means is Gangnam typical of Korea or Seoul. From what I understand (and what I see) it is a wealthy area. I do not mean upper middle class, but proper wealth. Parents might be highly trained professionals or businessmen. They have been very successful in Korea's last 50 years of development, and their children are not hard pressed. As such the people here have ample leisure time.
This is reflected at the cafes. Most of the people around me are probably between 20 and 35. They are not here for a brief lunch break, in fact many may be here for hours. Furthermore, almost everyone here is female. There are men, but they tend to be meeting ladies. The wealth of their parents explains their freedom to do this, but doesn't give a reason. Consequently, it is not their wealth, but their sense of leisure that interests me. What do they do to occupy their time? What entertains them? What do they pursue? How does the cafe fit into this. Not monetary gain, they are in a coffee shop and don't seem to be working or meeting clients. Not gluttonous consumption, they rarely have more than 1 or 2 drinks over an afternoon.
From what I see conversation seems to be very important here. I can't understand what people are saying, but they aren't yelling, a la Exeter. The best I can guess is that a variety of topics pass back and forth between them. Socialization and company seem to be the reason to be here for many. A convenient and public place in which to meet friends over an afternoon.
But this is not what I find most engaging about Gangnam cafes. What I find most striking, and unprecedented in my experience, is the art. A lot of people, particularly ladies, bring sketch books, and even paint and brushes here. I've been here about 4 times this trip and about 6 last time, and there have almost always been people painting, drawing, taking photographs. Today I even saw an array of hair extensions being put into a lady's hair by her friends. This was peculiar.
What I'm digging at is that there seems to be a connection between coffee shops, monied leisure, women, and visual art. At least in Gangnam. I can't really speculate about what the reasons underlying this association might be. I might wonder, are most artists in Korea female. Is that the relevant fact, rather than the leisured status of the particular women here? Perhaps these artists are here purposively, seeking inspiration? In which case the social conditions of Gangnam might have relatively little to do with the artists here in this cafe. Or perhaps wealth daughters in Gangnam take up art professionally or for recreation, enjoy doing this socially, and hence come to local cafes?
I haven't seen anything much like this before. That's the benefit of returning to Korea. It is very interesting to get a sense of how people behave in different places. I can't say anything about Korean's from this experience, but that isn't the point. I actually find it quite refreshing that people here take art seriously. My love of photography is partially a channel for my creative imagination (I can't judge of the success of this outlet). Here's to the unexpected and the delightful.
Once more into the breach,
Ben
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